Typically, a flight to Inverness is your most direct and simplest route to the Isle of Skye. But, for some travellers a road trip might be a more practical alternative that is also an exciting journey across the UK. In late April, 2023, we took a road trip to Portree with our dog and plenty of interesting stops along the way.
The Isle of Skye is one of the most breathtakingly beautiful places on the planet. It has stunning mountains, coastlines and lochs as well as a wide range of bird and sea-life. If you want to bring your own car or caravan from mainland Europe, Portsmouth is a great arrival point, as one of the UK’s major port cities. In April 2023, Lauren and I, took a road trip from Portsmouth to Skye with our dog and most of our worldly possessions in our car. It was a great success and a lot of fun. this article sets out our route and some of our highlights and recommendations from out four-day trip.
Day 1 – Portsmouth to Chester
We set off around 11 am from Portsmouth, hoping to complete the longest leg of our journey. We were heading for the historic Roman city of Chester. Our route took us north, through the North Wessex Downs, Oxford and the outskirts of Birmingham. Birmingham can be very congested and exit signs for the city seem to continue forever. However, reaching the M42 at early afternoon on a Tuesday was relatively low on traffic. There are plenty of large service stations, with a bit of grassy space. We let Belka have twenty minute sniff-arounds every hour or so.
We arrived in Chester at around 6pm. The 240 miles trip should take four – five hours but we built in plenty of stops for Belka. Seven hours door-to-door is more than I would usually want to spend on the road in any road trip. This first leg of the route however, has plenty of motorway time, making it less fatiguing to drive. There are however plenty of great places to stop overnight before Chester to break up the journey. Oxford, Stratford-upon Avon (Shakespeare-country), or Birmingham each offer many attractions and dog-friendly accommodation options.
Our accommodation in Pulford, just outside Chester, was truly fabulous and astonishingly affordable, out of season. The Grosvenor is a spa hotel with a luxurious feel and a genuine love of dogs. Staff are friendly and the communal areas are lavish, with a hybrid of traditional and modern décor. Some hotels claim to be dog-friendly but have very little to show for it. The Grosvenor is the very opposite. Dog friendly rooms contain a dog bed, bowls, treats and a welcome pack for your four-legged companion. After a long day, Belka was tired and we felt comfortable leaving him in our bedroom while Lauren and I took advantage of the swimming pool, sauna and jacuzzi. A great way to unwind after a day of travelling.
Day 2 – Chester to Carlisle
Having visited Chester many times before, we opted to forgo a visit this time. Chester however, is particularly interesting to anyone interested in Roman history and architecture. There are many well preserved ruins including part of a colosseum and extensive city walls.
The drive from Chester to Carlisle is the shortest leg of our trip at only two and a half hours. We were able to take our time and enjoyed a leisurely stop at Tebay Services. It may sound strange to highlight a service stop but this one is out of the ordinary. A tastefully designed, stone building, with spectacular hillside views. Tebay services contains a farm shop and kitchen serving high quality local produce. Much of the indoor space is dog friendly and there is also plenty of green space outside to explore.
Our hotel was located near the centre of Carlisle, with it’s own parking area. In fact the Crown & Mitre Hotel turned out to be one of the oldest and most prominent in Carlisle, with it’s front doors facing the main high street. Our dog-friendly room was basic but comfortable and a great price. We were only a ten minute walk form the huge river-side green space which sat behind Carlisle Castle. A perfect spot for some post-drive dog exercise
This was a first time in Carlisle for all of us. We knew the city was famous for its biscuit factory and friendly people. And we learned, after arriving, that it is apparently the largest city in England, on a technicality of land borders. Lauren and I went out in search of an evening meal and were shocked at how quiet the streets were. In an unassuming back street we discovered the Print Yard, an eclectic mix of street-food kitchens and a cocktail bar under one roof. The Mexican food was excellent with great portions and staff very attentive.
Day 3 – Carlisle to Oban
After a good night’s sleep we loaded up the car and set off to continue our road trip to Portree with our dog. Before leaving Carlisle we grabbed a coffee, only a few paces from the hotel was the Espresso Hub with a collection of locals eating big breakfasts. The coffee was large, the staff friendly and dogs very welcome!
From Carlisle our drive to Oban was going to take us close to four hours. Lauren and I were looking forward to crossing the border in to Scotland and this leg was out most scenic so far. Driving along the outskirts of Loch Lomond provided our first jaw-dropping moments. Beautiful clear water, trees and mountains all around. We stopped at the beautiful, picturesque village of Luss, on Loch Lomond to give Belka his first run-around north of the border. Luss is a tiny village, consisting mainly of traditional Scottish bungalows, a small church and grave yard and lots of loch-side walking opportunities. It was also a very popular tourist stop-off; even in late April. But it was easy to lose most tourists by walking a little off the beaten path.
The Road to the Isles is spectacular, with views of lochs and mountains all the way
After Luss, we completed the rest of the scenic drive north. Oban is a popular starting point for visitors to the Highlands and the Isle of Skye. A small, pretty port town with a horseshoe-shaped bay, offering ferry routes out to the Hebrides and the Isle of Mull.
We stayed just outside Oban at one of the many inventive accommodation options which have sprung up in back-gardens. A semi-cylindrical glamping pod, offering just about enough space for Belka, Lauren and I. It was our smallest and most isolated stay so far as well as being the most expensive. North-west Scotland has a thriving tourist industry and it is a real challenge to find good accommodation for under £70 per night, although certainly possible if you can be a little flexible on location, facilities and space.
The outskirts of Oban offer rugged, forest landscapes with walking tracks and dog walking opportunities. We walked Belka into the hills immediately behind our Airbnb through dense forest and sections of felled trees. There were also great views of hills as far as the eye can see.
Day 4 – Oban to Portree
Today is the day! Lauren, Belka and I take one of the most scenic drives in Europe before sailing across on the ferry to the Isle of Skye. Our route takes us from Oban, north along the A828 to Fort William. The route then heads north-west on the ultra-scenic “Road to the Isles” eventually reaching the tiny port of Mallaig. The Road to the Isles is spectacular, with views of lochs and mountains all the way. For us, the scenery was worth the added expense, and inconvenience of the ferry compared with taking the Skye Bridge.
We stopped at the awe-inspiring Loch Linnhe, just north of Glencoe, for a leg stretch. The air was clean and fresh, and a little cooler than the days before. Although we didn’t have sun, the scenery was still epic, and the cloud cover offered a sense of mystique and charm. The Loch itself was absolutely flat and the reflection was crystal clear, providing a perfect mirror-image of the mountains.
Continuing the picturesque drive to Mallaig, we drove along the beautiful Loch Eil, on the A830 for about 8 km. As is the case in many parts of this region, it’s wise to stay vigilant on the roads. Visitors in cars are battling with many factors: driving unfamiliar cars on unfamiliar roads, often on the other side of the road to what they are used to. All of this while surrounded by new and exciting things to look at. Expect erratic and unpredictable braking and stopping, as well as overtaking by frustrated locals. We’ve written a comprehensive guide to how to drive safely in Scotland here.
Once past Loch Eil, we continue along the A830, to the small town of Glenfinnan. Sitting on the northern tip of Loch Shiel, Glenfinnan is home of the famous Glenfinnan viaduct, featured in the Harry Potter films. On the main road, driving through Glenfinnan we found the perfect coffee stop. A chance to take in the views and give Belka another much needed trot around. The Glenfinnan Coffee Company is a relatively new venture, operating out of a stylish, converted trailer and comes with a strong recommendation from me.
Mallaig is our final stop on the mainland; from here we take the car ferry on a 45 minute crossing to Armadale, on the Isle of Skye. A seal swims us off and Belka sticks his head through the bars on deck, and watches the waves. Booking ahead for the ferry is essential as crossings are limited and the ferry is relatively small. Dogs are welcome, and travel for free, but their space needs to be booked in advance.
Reaching the Isle of Skye
Arriving on the island, Skye very quickly becomes absolutely breathtaking. The landscape is subtlety different from that of the mainland. The mountains are more jagged and striking and the brown, green and yellow colours are more vibrant. There are sheep and Highland cows everywhere and it is incredibly easy to lose the crowds. Arriving in late-April, is obviously pre-tourist peak-season, but we had still not expected the sense of isolation. There are not many roads to choose in Skye. The most direct way to the island’s capital, Portree, is the mostly coastal A851 onto the A87. However Lauren and I wanted to explore with a detour to Tarskavaig on the opposite coast to Armadale.
Driving to Tarskavaig, it’s soon apparent that the Skye roads are relentlessly narrow, often single-track. There are however frequent and well sign-posted passing places. Road quality leaves much to be desired; there are numerous pot-holes of varying shapes and sizes. Despite being national-speed limit roads, I would advise an abundance of caution for your safety and to avoid a potential big repair bill on your car.
Tarskavaig is a tiny village that offers a small, remote pebble beach, that was a great stop-off point for Belka to run off some energy. The views were typically impressive, with mountains off in the distance and low hanging clouds swimming around the peaks. As with many places in Skye, a village or a beach seldom comes with any amenities or conveniences. There are barely any houses, let alone shops, bars or restaurants. This is a massive part of the charm, but be prepared! Similarly, for dog owners, with the amount of cattle and sheep around, it is worth planning your dog walks. The beaches are often a good bet for some off-lead time without the worry.
After Tarskavaig, we jumped in the car and re-joined the road to Portree; essentially back the way we came. About halfway through the 1 hour 15 minute drive, we reach the town of Broadford which is the second largest on Skye. It is a good place to stock up, or refuel. If you arrive early enough, there are a good range of cafes including the fantastic Coffee Bothy, which is well sign posted from the main road. If arriving a little later in the afternoon or early evening, there are a number of restaurants including takeaway fish and chips and pizza. Portree can be extremely busy with tourists, even in April, and unless you have already made restaurant reservations, arriving and expecting to find a table, or even a take-away option, is a gamble.
Lauren, Belka and I arrive in Portree at around 6pm, completing our four-day road-trip from the south of England. Despite it being a built-up town, there are still a number of dog walking options, including a woodland trail along a stream, a gravel path walk up into the hill behind the grand old Viewfield House hotel and a 1-2 hour hilly coastal path circular walk called the Scorrybreac.
While there are quicker and easier ways to get to Skye, driving may be the only option if, like us, you are travelling with your dog. Four days was a comfortable journey-length, without pushing myself, as the driver, too hard and leaving plenty of time to sight-see. If you are planning a similar trip, I hope this article is helpful. Best of luck and safe journey.
Jon
Jon is an adventurer at heart. He has driven 8000 miles across Europe, completed multi-day hikes and swum with sharks. He has had a long and impressive career managing in a training and education business as well as leading transformational change during Covid-19. He has now taken the brave decision to step away from corporate life to pursue his creative ambitions. He is currently editing his first book as well as creating this blog. Together with Lauren, Jon has embarked on many adventures including a winter road trip of Italy, a sleeper train tour for his birthday and kayaking in the Galapagos Islands.