Driving on the Isle of Skye can be a uniquely challenging experience. But it is totally worth it. Driving around Skye, offers unparalleled access and freedom. Public transport on the island is decent but limited in both availability and range of destinations. Having your own vehicle allows you to visit some of the more difficult to reach sites and means you can stay as long as you want.
I have lived on the Isle of Skye for three months now, with my wife and our dog and we’ve driven to almost every part of the island. This article is written to help anyone prepare for their first trip to Skye with a car.
Disclaimer: all of this is to be taken in the context of UK driving laws and the Highway Code, both of which naturally take priority.
Roads are narrow. Passing places to the rescue!
With the notable exception of the main road (the A87) most roads are single track. The single track is easily wide enough for any single vehicle, but not for two. Traffic is two-way, meaning that understanding how and where to pass oncoming vehicles is an essential skill to master. The good news is, there are many “passing places” on single track roads. Passing places are sections where the road becomes wide enough for vehicles to pass. Normally they are about three – four car-lengths, meaning that three to four cars can pull in to the passing place and wait while oncoming traffic goes past. Thankfully, passing places are very regular and well sign posted throughout the island’s roads.
The etiquette of using passing places is straight forward. When you see an oncoming vehicle, if they have already passed their last available passing place and they are continuing toward you, then you should wait at your next available passing place. However, if you get to your last available passing place before they do, then they should wait for you. This isn’t always possible and sometimes you wont be able to see, or may just make a mistake. Don’t fret! Simply reverse, calmly and safely, back to your nearest passing place and let the oncoming vehicle go by.
Some last tips. Avoid passing outside of the passing places. I have seen many drivers panic as soon as they see an oncoming car and just pull over to the side of the single track road, wherever they may be at that moment. This might seem like a helpful manoeuvre but it usually is not. One, or both vehicles will need to drop their wheels off one side of the road, potentially causing damage to the car.
In June and July, when sunset comes as late as 10.30pm, we’ve been able to start a hike at 6pm and enjoy deserted roads while driving home.
Potholes as far as the eye can see
In 2022 Lauren and I took a road trip across Europe and the Balkans, including some very remote places. Many of the roads on Skye are on par with some of the worst roads we experienced on that trip. On Skye, potholes are a way of life. Some roads are better than others but its best to stay alert, particularly when on the single track roads. The holes come in all shapes and sizes, sometimes making them unavoidable. So don’t be afraid to slow right down and take them gently. It’s also a good reason to drive at a moderate speed.
While it’s a good idea to avoid the potholes, make sure not to put yourself in danger to do so. For instance, swerving into oncoming traffic to avoid a pothole, or taking your car off-road. I’ve found it is best to accept that potholes are an unavoidable part of Skye driving, you will have to drive over a few from time to time. Just do so in a way that keeps damage to a minimum and keeps you and your car safe.
Be courteous to local drivers
As a new driver on Skye (or even a slightly more experienced one like me), don’t try and keep pace with the locals. The Isle of Skye is so densely populated with tourists for half of the year that it’s easy to forget there are people who live and work here all year round. There is understandable frustration amongst locals who have to put up with queues of slow-moving, unpredictable drivers. They might be on their way to work, or to spend precious time with family and friends. Whatever the reason, it’s courteous to safely let these drivers pass at the earliest opportunity. They know the roads and can safely drive them much more quickly, so its best not to try to keep at their pace.
You may ask “How can you identify a local driver?” It’s not always fool-proof but there are some reliable indicators. Tradespersons’ panel vans, often with a business name on the bonnet or on the side, is likely to be a local. Older, or more unique vehicles are also more likely to be driven by Skye residence. I say older vehicles because tourists are very often driving rental cars which tend to be brand new and somewhat unremarkable. The big camper vans are also very commonplace on Skye’s roads, and naturally these almost exclusively belong to non-residents.
Give the other tourists a break.
Skye is a melting pot of visitors from all over the world. Most are from countries that drive on the right side of the the road. In Skye, like in the rest of the UK, roads are left-side drive. This means many tourists driving on Skye will be doing so under challenging conditions, requiring a lot of focus and concentration, as they adjust to driving on the other side of the road. Add into the mix a high number of Americans driving on Skye, many of whom may be using manual transmission for the first time, it’s safe to expect other road users to be slow and unpredictable. For instance, I’ve seen drivers frequently pulling over to the wrong side of the road to let someone pass; rolling back a few feet, when pulling away on a hill; swinging out wide, crossing the middle line of two-way roads; and adopting a somewhat random approach to indicator usage.
Driving on Skye you CAN beat the traffic
Skye is a destination to enjoy the great outdoors. Popular with hikers, photographers and nature enthusiasts. As a result visitors, on the whole, are early risers and early returners; getting back to their hotels and Airbnbs with plenty of time to shower, have a hearty meal and enjoy a scotch by the fire before bed. Likewise, there is not a great deal in the way of nightlife on Skye. Most restaurants are closed by 10pm and pubs are not far behind. Because of this, the roads tend to get quiet, particularly on the more remote parts of the island from 7pm onwards, as tourists race back to make their dinner reservations.
Lauren, Belka and I have frequently taken advantage of the early-finish culture on the Isle of Sky. Particularly in June and July, when sunset comes as late as 10.30pm, we’ve been able to start a hike at 6pm and enjoy deserted roads while driving home.
Overall, driving in Skye requires some care and attention. It certainly can be a little more challenging and hazardous than driving on the mainland. But by no means does that mean it is dangerous. By staying vigilant, driving safely and taking note of some of these tips, your driving experience can be stress-free! Not only that, but it can be hugely rewarding and worthwhile, with some phenomenal mountain, loch and coastal views, that you simply cannot easily experience when relying on public transport.
When you visit the Isle of Skye with your car, be courteous and safe and you will have an incredible time!
Jon
Jon is an adventurer at heart. He has driven 8000 miles across Europe, completed multi-day hikes and swum with sharks. He has had a long and impressive career managing in a training and education business as well as leading transformational change during Covid-19. He has now taken the brave decision to step away from corporate life to pursue his creative ambitions. He is currently editing his first book as well as creating this blog. Together with Lauren, Jon has embarked on many adventures including a winter road trip of Italy, a sleeper train tour for his birthday and kayaking in the Galapagos Islands.