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Fall in Love with Angouleme: Murals, Comics and Wes Anderson

  • Lauren 

Accidentally Wes Anderson may be trending, but here we reflect on a trip that was deliberately Wes Anderson

If you are a Wes Anderson fan, you’ll recognise Angouleme immediately as the setting of The French Dispatch. Centred on a hill, with ancient ramparts and a vibrant student population, Angouleme is a beautifully French city to get lost in.

It’s also a world-famous destination for comic book fans, with an internationally famous Comic Book Festival each January. Street art and murals are more common here than blank buildings. Even the street signs are in comic book fonts.

The whole destination is so whimsical that we spent both two full days here (as part of our European road trip). We walked for hours in search of all the hidden works of art and trying to identify Wes Anderson’s filming locations.

We even visited the huge museum of animation, housed in a former paper factory, spending hours watching clips and laughing at archaic comic strips. Our apartment was far more central than most we’ve stayed in and very easy to find as the side of the building was decorated by a huge, illuminated Asterix mural. We were in the attic space, with three large sky lights: perfect for enjoying the thunderstorms at night.

The side of the building was decorated by a huge, illuminated Asterix mural.

Across the street was a small brewery and the market hall where we enjoyed a coffee each morning. We could imagine ourselves living here, but would perhaps have to become artists to fit in.

Top Things to do in Angouleme

Explore the Musée de la Bande Dessinée

Spend hours delighting in the intricate art of comic books. There are familiar characters and more obscure work that gives a fascinating overview of the history of comic books. The museum is situated on the banks of the river and can easily be combined with a visit to the cinema or a walk along the leafy riverbanks. There are also plenty of interactive areas to keep children entertained…as well as fun loving adults.

After leaving the museum, it was a delight to walk through the neighbouring Art School and see the future cartoonists in action.

An interactive monochrome display at the Musee de Bande Desinnee

Visit the Cinema de la Cite

An independent cinema on the riverbank. Part of the cultural quarter that also houses the comic art museum, a ‘house of authors’ and a vast education programme. This is a must visit cinema if you are a film fan.

Relax in the Galarie d’Art Park (part of the Jardin Vert)

Close to the Cinema de la Cite, this overgrown and quiet park is filled with surreal sculptures, winding trails and an Art Nouveau folly. The perfect resting spot for a picnic between the museums. When we visited someone had tied handwritten poetry around the lampposts. That’s just the kind of city Angouleme is.

Follow the Mural Trail

Whether you choose to follow the official app or to stumble across the city’s murals in a more ad hoc manner, there is no escaping the inventive, surprising art that is dotted throughout Angouleme. While walking through the town, make sure to look everywhere: the art could appear anywhere! Next to our apartment, was an illuminated dedication to the Asterix cast.

Spot the Comic Book Street Signs

The town has truly embraced its artistic reputation with even the street signs being printed in comic book fonts. This makes navigating Angouleme a whimsical experience.

Walk the Ramparts

The walls that hug the city and snake down to the lower residences are a great route to follow. Many notable events take advantage of the broad ramparts including Circuit des Ramparts. This is an annual classic car rally that looks like something out of wacky races; completely in keeping with the whimsical theme of the city.

Taste the Produce at Le Marche des Halles D’Angouleme

This light drenched, market hall is packed with local produce, artisan sellers and a sense of history. Best of all, the central bar is open all day for a coffee or glass of Pastis. Accompany it with a charcuterie or cheese board to really savour the goods on offer at the market.

Try authentic food and drink…anywhere!

Angouleme is renowned for its arty scene, but the culinary delights are equally impressive. Some of our favourites include: craft beers at Bock N’Roll; an aperetif at La Chat Noir; a late dinner at Le Lieu-Dit.

There are so many things to do in Angouleme that two days is barely enough. Spend a relaxed week in this beautiful city to really soak in its atmosphere.

Trip map created using Wanderlog, a road trip planner app on iOS and Android

Lauren is a qualified teacher, theatre practitioner and writer. Her proudest moments include taking a student expedition team to Ecuador, drafting her first novel and recently reaching the top of a climbing wall. Lauren loves travelling, having treated herself to a trip of the Trans-Siberian railroad for her 30th birthday, she is now looking forward to being in Japan for her 40th. Together with Jon, Lauren has enjoyed plenty of adventures from a road trip around Cuba to diving in the Galapagos Islands. Lauren is now working hard to write full time whilst being available for teaching and tutoring sessions, specialising in Shakespeare.