To begin with a disclaimer: we hadn’t intended for this to be a solo trip…however Jon was struck down with Covid on the eve of our friend’s wedding which lead to a 7 day isolation for him and me spending most of the week alone in the famous capital. Although popular as a stag and party destination, Prague is a surprisingly welcoming city for women travelling alone.
Our first three days in Prague, I had a fantastic time with our old college friends celebrating (and recovering from) our friend’s wedding. The ceremony took place at the iconic St Salvator Church with a relaxed, lively reception at Mesto More with guests all jumping on the tram between the two venues. After the other guests departed, I set out to discover the city for myself in 4 days
Accommodation & Travel
We stayed in two very different districts during our stay. Firstly, within the cool artsy 7th district Holesovice. Secondly, in the leafier, university and coffee shop dominated 6th District Dejvice. Both places were found via Airbnb months in advance and were great value compared to other cities we’ve travelled to.
We were able to find secure parking nearby via MrParkit. We didn’t use the car all the time we were in the city as there is an extensive metro and tram system linking all the districts and sites. I used these night and day and felt very safe as the stations were well lit and busy.
Day One (Holesvice)
Morning
Woke up to another hot, sunny day in Prague. Jon was feeling pretty poorly so he stayed home and I went to the local famer’s market Holešovice Market to stock up on goodies and healthy snacks to keep him going. A brilliant, locals’ market with fresh produce and some interesting food trucks, during weekend evenings there is also live music and local breweries with limited run beers to try. For women travelling alone, it’s a fantastic place to try some new foods and mingle with the local families.
Afternoon
I took a quick metro ride into the old town to take in the iconic sights. The sudden bustle of tourist groups was a stark contrast to the chilled atmosphere of Holesvice. But there were some highlights:
The Astronomical Clock. Dating from the Middle Ages, the clock is a charming, must-see even if you are standing amongst hundreds of other people doing the same thing. There is a paid museum at the base, but the crowds put me off, plus the real spectacle is the miniature figurines intricately ‘performing’ to chimes each hour of the day.
River-watching from the Charles Bridge. There are plenty of people watching opportunities on and around the Charles Bridge. From street performers to over-awed tourists, it’s a packed scene. However, what kept me relaxing at the riverside wasn’t people watching but coypu watching. Coypu are small, beaver-like creatures who have made the riverbanks and islands their home. They are as plentiful here as pigoens of swans in UK parks. Only cuter. Picking any of the grassy banks for a beer and a beach chair allows you to slow down and enjoy the relaxed pace. For women travelling alone, it isn’t difficult to find places to chill out, undisturbed.
Interacting with the art in the Illusions Museum. This isn’t a big museum and may only take you 20 mins to walk around. Its target audience is certainly those who want to snap quirky selfies. For this, the museum is unbeatable. Several clever ‘illusions’ are elegantly displayed for viewers to interact with. For this reason, it’s probably a favourite for families and Instagram stars rather than serious art connoisseurs. Good fun though if you’ve already got the entry fee included in a package (a bit pricey otherwise).
Cringing at the Sex Machines Museum This was close to the Illusions Museum and seemed intriguing. It contained an impressive array of implements, costumes and historical oddities…however, the overall vibe was decidedly unsexy. Partly because I was asked where my husband was when I bought my ticket (rude); partly because of the groups of awkward young men giggling around the place. There was also a small peep-show cinema showing vintage nude reels. Although spread over 4 floors, visitors seem to mainly visit for the novelty factor and only spend about 20mins here. Not necessarily a great use of time or money
Admiring the salsa lesson on Strelecky Island. The island is a leafy, rustic delight in the middle of the heaving city. Multiple pop-up bars and small stages give the place a festival atmosphere. I was lucky enough to cross the bridge to the island as sunset was approaching and couples met to practise salsa dancing. I would have loved to spend more time here. A great place for a mid-tour break or an evening with friends.
Overall, a beautiful old town but marred by duplicate tourist shops, Starbucks and massage parlours. It was evident that Prague has a long-established reputation as a hen and stag-do capital which may put off some women travelling alone. I decided to walk back rather than grab a tram, so took my time exploring the whole riverside enjoying the clashing, eclectic architecture. Bringing Jon back a takeaway for the evening from Public Chilli.
Day two (Dejvice)
Early in the morning, we relocated to Dejvice. Our apartment was on a broad, tree-lined street between grand university buildings. The large windows providing Jon with much-needed views and entertainment during his isolation.
I bought Jon a coffee from Cafe Borzoi (recommended by our friend and coffee-guru Pravin of Sunday Coffee Roasters) and then took the chance to go out while there was a break in the rain. I headed back toward the centre, deliberately seeking out as much of the public artworks as possible en route. Much of the installations are the creation of David Cerny.
The best find was the NaFilm Museum. A brilliant interactive museum on the history of Czech cinema including a fully equipped foley studio and VR segment. So interesting and hands on. I spent over an hour enjoying all the exhibits and would have loved to come back for a screening or event. I bought Jon an X Files sticker (although I was tempted by the ET socks, but that’s not his favourite alien).
After a nutritious lunch at The Bowls, I eagerly headed to another form of transportation: the funicular. This transported a happy group of travellers up through Kinsky park and toward the Petrin Tower. The tower (modelled on the Eiffel Tower) is a wonderful place for a panoramic view across Prague. I missed the sign for the elevator so exhausted myself with the climb up the 299 steps. But it was worth it for the view across Prague with rain clouds looming in the distance. At the base of the tower, a mirror maze with some dioramas of the history of Prague was included. Not sure I learnt anything, but it was fun. I forewent the various ice cream stands and cafes around the grounds in search of a beer somewhere a little more authentic.
I took a very long walk home (partly because I took a tram in the wrong direction; partly because I had to stop to sample yet another Czech beer). Along the way, I saw more public art including yellow penguins at Kampa Park and barcode faced babies (Cerny again!) Eventually, I arrived back to the flat to see Jon at the window catching the sunset. We had a Vietnamese takeaway and set up like we were at a restaurant.
Day three
The morning coffee run was to Cafe Sofa– a very modern and calming vibe with great, fresh coffee for my isolating husband. All the way back along the street, I found greengrocers, ice cream parlours and health food shops buzzing with creativity; a real sense of community.
After coffee, I took a now familiar walk (waving goodbye to Jon, perching in the window above). I headed back towards the old town (Stare Mesto) in search of more of the imaginative street art and installations that had become a staple part of my days in Prague.
Firstly though, I stopped at the atmospheric. Shakespeare and Sons Bookstore . I picked up a short novella (Antoine De Saint Exupery’s Wind, Sand and Stars) and looked forward to finding the perfect reading spot later.
A few paces away, The Lennon Wall, came into view across a vine-covered bridge. The colours peeled with layers of peace-wishing messages. A beautiful sight.
With my recently acquired book bouncing in my backpack, my next stop had to be the Prague Municipal Library. I was here for the intriguingly named installation: Idiom. Idiom is a great tower of books, with cleverly places mirrors giving the illusion of an infinite tunnel.
From here, Wenceslas Square was a half hour walk (via the captivating Franz Kafka floating head sculpture). Here in a nostalgic shopping arcade, another piece of public art could be found. The Lucerna Shopping Arcade, which had two levels of smoke-filled cafes and a cinema, looked over by exquisite stained-glass designs, is the home to the upside down hanging horse statue. A bizarre sight but worth the detour.
I settled for just under two hours in Strelecky Park with the book I’d picked up at Shakespeare & Sons earlier in the day to read in the sunshine.
Finally, before dark, I caught a tram back to the apartment and to Jon for chess and dinner: delicious Mexican food from Las Adelitas Taqueria.
Day four
On my last day of exploring, I felt I should see more of the famous parks. I wanted to make sure I did these in daylight and knew it would be a big step count day, so I set off earlier than usual. Daytime trips to the numerous beautiful parks are a must for women travelling alone in Prague..
My priority was finding a great breakfast to give me the necessary energy for my plans. I was in luck. Ezra’s Bagels looked authentic and inviting from the outside and even better once I’d stepped through it’s huge doors. The owners are genuine New Yorkers bringing a hipster, Greenwich Village take on bagels. Their shop has a huge space for open mic nights and toddler groups. I could have spent many hours there, but Letna park was calling.
The extensive Letna Park is on a high bluff on the north bank of the river; perfect for photos overlooking the old town. Although no visitor can boast of having a better view than the giant metronome that dominates the park’s peak. The metronome is a provocative art piece that took the place of a statue of Joseph Stalin. Skaters make this area their home and there are clashing musical tastes piping out from various speakers and picnic groups.
From here, I made for the DOX Gallery. Some of the gallery is free, but the special exhibits were well worth the entrance fee. I was mesmerised by an eclectic range of outsider art and protest art. The collection spanned a variety of forms including video montages, floor-to-ceiling banners, postcards and even food. The crowning glory of the place though, is a whimsical airship parked on the roof of the building. The bamboo framed structure holds an event space and pop-up cinema. Although out of use during my visit, I could easily imagine what a magical space the airship would be as an audience member.
Continuing the steampunk vibes from the airship, I walked the short distance to Cross Club. This labyrinth of bars, music spaces, club basements and terraces are woven together with scraps of metal, chains and cogs. Overall, the sensation of tiptoeing amongst it all makes you feel as if you are on a great, mechanical pirate ship. The fellow drinkers help add to that impression too. For women travelling alone, it’s worth noting that, although I felt completely comfortable, the Cross Club has a somewhat edgy and energetic atmosphere!
One final walk through Stromovka Park as our final day in Prague drew to a close. The park is constructed in a romantic fashion around a former royal hunting lodge, there are sloping grass peaks, lakes, bridges and grottos to weave amongst. A perfect place for couples to enjoy the regular live music drifting through the park.
Looking back on my exploration of the city, it was easy to miss all the famous sights while finding a greener, arty city buzzing with creativity. The trams and metro made it a breeze to fly between different districts and public areas were well it enough to feel very safe. For me, the parks and the art trails made Prague an ideal city for women travelling alone.
Lauren
Lauren is a qualified teacher, theatre practitioner and writer. Her proudest moments include taking a student expedition team to Ecuador, drafting her first novel and recently reaching the top of a climbing wall. Lauren loves travelling, having treated herself to a trip of the Trans-Siberian railroad for her 30th birthday, she is now looking forward to being in Japan for her 40th. Together with Jon, Lauren has enjoyed plenty of adventures from a road trip around Cuba to diving in the Galapagos Islands. Lauren is now working hard to write full time whilst being available for teaching and tutoring sessions, specialising in Shakespeare.